Thursday, August 16, 2007

The sweet and sour Indian story from Viswanathan Anand

(The author is world chess champion, Viswanathan Anand)

In 2007, as we complete 60 years of Independence as Indians, we seem to have got a new sense of identity. Not just the kind of identity that comes from having Aloo Tikki burgers or Bollywood pop but a true sense of being a country. As we add to an impressive list of billionaires and top class corporate, Indians are extremely proud of seeing the Indian Tricolor fly high.


For me personally, becoming World No. 1 meant that it was not a first for me but a first for my country. Recently I was with the mayor of a picturesque German town. She mentioned that they were now keen to have Indian tourists rather than Japanese. This was an eye-opener. She said Indians came, stayed at the best hotels and spent on fine food and wine. They were not keen on mass tourism in crowded buses. This is a paradigm shift. India is now seen not as a country with a future but a country where the purse strings are beginning to open and the purse itself is bulging. As the Sensex zooms to new levels, Indians silently feel that the country is prospering. Images of patriotism are now new symbols of prosperity.


All this makes me feel very proud to be part of a country that is rich in its past and more likely in the future.


Recently a Spanish magazine ran an article on the state of Indian women. To say the least it was highly derogatory and general in its assumption. My wife called the editor to complain about the lack of sensitivity and the general assumptions made to call all Indian women subservient and modern-day slaves. It was most saddening to see that some countries perceive us as an impoverished society. The fact that we have elected women as President and Prime Minister, CEOs, traveled to space didn't cut. The answer was coldly that "but most of your women don't have a chance".


Although I hate to admit it, female infanticide still exists in certain states. It is altering the gender ratio in some states that are among our more prosperous states. This is what is disturbing -- economic wealth alone is not an indicator of social progress. We have women at two ends at the spectrum fighting against odds to achieve. For some, the odds are just life and death.


As we power ourselves to be the knowledge powerhouse of the world, we are proud to bring computers to the farmer. I have myself seen such touching examples of women using the stone they use to roll chapattis as mouse pads. Micro credit has been a boon to many farmers and big corporate have come up with novel ideas of giving the farmer a better deal. But being a highly fragmented country you see some farmers self-immolating themselves for the lack of the very same privileges some of their fortunate brothers now seem to use as normal business practices.


I have travelled to many countries and met Indians in countries like Iceland and Estonia. The one striking feature is we blend in very easily. We are able to assimilate other cultures and never impose our beliefs on others. Somehow we are able to leave that baggage at home. When I hear of untouchability being an issue or caste issues being raised it rattles this equilibrium.


It takes just one tale like that to mar 100 perfect images of the Indian story. It then becomes the story we get identified with. When someone asks me which caste I belong to or does my caste mean I go to heaven, I, honestly, have to say I don't think of it. My main aim in life is that I play chess. They always find that answer irritating or rather un-mystic. But somewhere they have been given to believe that that is what India is.


There are two perceptions of India. One, of the people who have interacted with India from the economic side, have worked with Indians or travelled on business and they generally have a fairly positive one. The others get their perceptions from reading general articles. Most articles are fairly complimentary when they talk about culture, colors or customs. But sometimes dowry, female infanticide or caste violence will raise its ugly head. There are foreigners who have been to India and have been mesmerized by the experience. There are some who have gone and the only thing they seemed to have noticed are the cows and poverty. In some western countries you do notice similar things but somehow I find it difficult to tell a person that "in your country you know, I hate the way the trains are".


We now seem to shop the same way as our American cousins and truffles and foie gras are something you buy in your local delicatessen. But you look closer. These brightly lit stores need generators to battle the unstable electricity grid that is reeling under the weight of our consumption. The water has to be specially brought and the roads feel like one roller coaster journey until you arrive at the cool Indian mall. We need to go beyond the shop window and actually look at how to improve basic utilities. Not just in cities but also in rural areas. That is how progress is measured .Many of our people still having no access to drinking water. Roads need to exist and electricity at times becomes a luxury. I am not against consumerism. Brightly lit malls are also providing employment. I think each one of the Indians has a right to be a consumer not only for goods but also for utilities and we need at least a basic level of service. Aspiration and the need to live better will make Indians more competitive and drive the need to study more. Aspiration, albeit not for just luxuries, but also equality, education and emancipation.


I recently travelled on the Delhi metro. This was one of the best public transport services I have ever been on. I am one of those people who take my carbon emissions seriously. So I love using public transport if and when possible. The Delhi Metro is much cleaner and safer than its European avatars. We handle more crowds but still the people seemed to be almost proud of it and that dirtying it would be a crime. It is the same India with its same bureaucracy that made this possible.


Similarly certain roads in India are just world class. If we could do it in a few sectors why can't we be able to take it to the whole country?


It takes time, resources and initiative. We have the talent to make it happen.


All of us feel extremely proud when we watch the Incredible India campaign. But sometimes we need to look beyond the glossy picture and look at the real story. The real story in India is not always sweet or always sour. Taking both together may make it the best taste yet.

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